Dunwey Peak II ("Rogan Peak")

 


September 12, 2010

Mountain height:         2442 m
Elevation gain:            approx. 1100 m                     

Scrambling and a little climbing with Mark.

Dunwey Peak appeared on the radar during an ascent of Lakeview Ridge in April of 2009. I had already reached the summit during a wonderful high-level traverse from Mount Galwey to Mount Dungarvan (hence the name), with Kevin Barton. However, an ascent from the east side seemed to have all kinds of potential for interesting scrambling and good scenery. (Note: two months after this ascent, my nephew, Rogan, was born and I subsequently renamed the mountain "Rogan Peak", in tribute to him)

We started from the Bison Paddock and quickly made our way to the beautiful valley on the south side of Lakeview Ridge. Some phenomenal cloud scenery above Chief Mountain was definitely the highlight of this part of the day. The “guaranteed to be easy” route would have been to stay on the Horseshoe Basin Trail to the pass west of Lakeview Ridge and then turn south, following gentle scree to the summit. However, we hoping to find a more challenging route up and save the easy stuff for the descent. As such, we left the trail and scampered up to one of several ridges descending from the summit. Besides splendid views of the surrounding area, the ridge boasted a couple of very interesting rockbands and some terrific red argillite scenery.

When it appeared staying directly on the ridge would be too difficult we traversed into a gully to the right and followed it up. The gully did provide a relatively easy and fun ascent to a point close to the summit. The easy part ended when we reached a steeper rockband guarding the upper slopes. A quick search revealed one less steep break in the band, but it was still at the very upper end of difficult scrambling and we decided to break out the rope. Mark led the step, I followed, and then it was easier to the ridge and a fine view of Mount Dungarvan. The summit was reached shortly after.

For descent, we took the easy route down to the north, until another straightforward route back to the Horseshoe Basin Trail appeared.

A very enjoyable and worthwhile trip.


Terrific cloud scenery at the beginning of the trip


Bellevue Hill (left) and Dunwey Peak (right)


Looking south to Waterton


More clouds


Clouds and Chief Mountain


Dunwey, with Dungarvan in the distant right


Galwey (left) and Dunwey (right)


The cloud scenery continued to impress us well into the trip


On the ridge


Last of the clouds


The very pleasant valley east of Galwey


The first of several interesting rockbands on the ridge


Scrambling up the band


The long, but beautiful ridge to Dunwey


Mark approaches of the second rockband


More excellent scenery


Orange lichen 


Mark and the second rockband


At the top


A very minor, but very colourful rockband


Mark atop the third 


Looking at the fouth and the summit block of Dunwey at the far left


Approaching the fourth and much more serious band


Same as above


There was a route right up the centre, but we decided to go around


The lichen covered rock of the fourth


Traversing around


Some mildly exposed terrain on the traverse


Gearing up for the summit block


In the ascent gully


Typical terrain in the lower section


Same as above


Approaching the crux


The crux rockband


Looking for a route around the crux


Didn't find one


Traversing back to the least steep section


Mark leads the crux step


At the summit; Blakiston, Anderson, and Dungarvan are prominent


Mark at the summit

Same as above


The very easy descent route; Lakeview Ridge in the centre


More pleasant red argillite surprises on the way down


Same as above


The Horseshoe Basin Valley


Hiking out


Mark does his "Gladiator" impression


Same as above


Looking back


While not as striking as the morning view, the clouds persist over Chief Mountain well into the day

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